Screen Doors and Cupboard Doors


Screen and cupboard doors are mortised and tenoned like sash and passage doors. Haunching and relishing are still required for quality work.

The challenge with screen doors is to get the stiles flat. Very stable wood is prefered to keep a screen door from distorting in the sun. I use VG Fir. And I spend a fair time at the jointer reducing any cup. Then, the stiles are placed together to see if there is gap between their faces. The faces producing gap will be the interior faces. If one stile is cupped more than the other, that will be the latch stile. You want the top and bottom to strike the jamb before the latch. This will prevent the door from rattling among other things. Bear in mind that we are talking about very small departures from perfectly flat boards. Boards that do not grade for a stile are diced into rails.

Stiles should net 4″ to keep from being distorted by taut wire. Bottom rails need not be as high as a passage door. The joint need not be as large as screen doors are very light. I raise one side of the panel to keep a thick impact resistant panel. The panel slot achieves the relish.

Ready for oil. I like to keep two sizes triple bead screen mold in stock. This is the smaller, more appropriate to the craftsman period home awaiting this door.

Earlier periods I use a larger screen mold. This is for an 1870s home. Transom screened also in this case. Typical 19th Century four panel door of the Machine Age.


I like to through mortise my cupboard doors. It’s no more work, looks nice and makes a very stout door. The panel slot makes the relish for the haunch. The raise goes to the inside.

The muntin gets a stub tenon.

And here we are going together. These are made from salvaged wood. Defects are put to the interior.

And here we are installed. No more open shelves. Very civilized.


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