This is a Greenlee 604. It is designed primarily for sash rail processes. It has a horizontal hollow chisel mortiser, foot feed, with a 2″ stroke. It is intended for cutting the small mortises in rails and bars required to accept the muntins in high grade multiple light sash making.

The foot pedal feeds the work while a three leaf spring returns the table withdrawing the chisel. Two dogs are dovetailed into the table and support the work on the return. The back fence keys into a slot and secures with a substantial t-bolt. Holes are provided to attach through mortise blow out fences and also for additional width support and stops.

Opposite the hollow chisel is the hauncher on the same spindle and axis, met by the relishing bit arbor driven separately and on a perpendicular axis. The purpose of haunching and relishing is explained elsewhere on this site.

Here we see the relishing drill arbor. An extra bearing has been added. It may have been a Greenlee fix. The stops for the width of part and depth of haunch are in the foreground on the sliding table. On top of the paper shim is the shoulder stop. I am not sure what the slot in the table is for.

In front of the skewed knife haunching head is the tenon chipbreaker platen. The spurs are gone on this head, which I think is right when using the relishing bit. When making a tight relish with the hollow chisel in finer work, the spurs would be needed as on a tenoner for a clean cut. But in this case, we need the fiber between the drill and the hauncher to tear at the small area between both tools.

The tailshaft is a simple affair. The drill has a twist in the belt which runs well and rides the crown. I am always amazed at these kind of flat belt drives. I have the tail shaft running at 900 rpm as per the Greenlee catalog, putting the chisel bit and haunching head at 3600 rpm. The foot pedal and part of the leaf spring are visible here also.

This machine has just been brought out of storage. It’s not real pretty that’s for sure. I always wanted to get it going. Especially when haunching and relishing at a combination of other machines. This makes it one quick pass. In fact all the miscellaneous rail functions can be made at this one station. I can find no picture of an original guard so I will figure something out. I believe the large bolt on the deck was intended to secure a cover.

This is a haunching head. They are a pyramidal casting. Notice the curve in the knives need to produce a flat cut. This is basically a miniature tenoning head. Three tooth spur peeks out from the end of the head. Knives like these are a specialty and must not be too hard below the heel.

Here is how the chisel, auger bit, and their bushings work. I suspect there was a cover, hinged, over the chuck which got in the way one too many times and became lost (somehow).

Here the relisher is now at work in the sash department. It makes fast work of relishing and haunching, that’s for sure. Need to keep a good hold of the part and keep them snug on the table. My relishing bit chuck required a shim. Eventually I will have it re-bored but I want to what’s available in bits first. This machine uses a straight shank rather than the tapered and straight combination shank.

One thing is that the relish and haunch are easy to change for sash thicknesses and haunch depth. And it will work for most stickings. This is a top rail. The stop adjusts to strike the table to limit depth. Wider rails the stop strikes the work instead. I am experimenting with guard ideas. Looking for an easy one that will give access to the oil ports.

That leather belt sure looks funny but that’s the way they intended, and, it works so no complaints from me.

I do pull the chisel bit while using this side of the machine but two guys could actually work at this machine at the same time, mortising on one end and haunching and relishing on the other.

I got tired of shimming the bit in the egg shaped bit arbor so i took it over the creek to the machinists who had a nice simple solution for me. The bottom of the 2″ bit bore was fine, the out side egged by years of set screwing from the side. So the put a hardened drill bushing, the dark ring, into the end of it, secured by one of the two set screws. To chuck the bit, they burned, EDM, a hole through the very hard bushing, to allow the other set to engage the flat we ground into the drill bit.

This worked so well I think I’ll go after the post drill next, for the same treatment.


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