We call this the pedal saw, although I believe other machines are also referred to as such. It has been used mostly for gaining or cutting dadoes across the grain mostly for jamb parts. I also use it to slot for shelves and to make drawers.


The fences can be set to any angle and then moved to the desired location on the tables without altering the angles by loosening the t-slot nuts. The wrench for that is on the left on the motor guard. The table on the left can be adjusted with the lever to spread the tables to suit the width of the dado. The safety stop below the lever prevents inadvertent movement of the table into the blades. Above it is the table lock.


The right hand table hinges to allow access to the saw arbor and it’s carriage. The carriage has four wheels that run on two rails front to back. A counter weight draws the carriage back when the pressure is let off the foot pedal. Stops at the foot pedal are used to govern the travel of the saw as required.

The frame that supports the rails is gibed into the near and far side of the machine frame and adjusts up and down by the hand wheel. This governs depth of cut.

A compound pair of idlers keep the belt tension uniform through the stroke of the carriage movement at any saw depth. It takes up slack with its own weight.

Pedal saw at work blanking tenons in 10/4 door stock. As you can see, the slot expands to suit the dado width. Saw came with flip stop rails originally but I am missing the brackets for them. So I simply use ye olde clamp.

The saw is best for gaining and crosscutting. But, it does have a tilting rip fence. It is a stout little buggar with zero deflection. This one was lost for a while but showed up recently in a clean up.

This is the arrangement of the pedal stops for ripping. The same stops are used for blind dados, finger pulls, etc..


Gaining on the pedal saw.



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