This is an American No 1 Sash Sticker, a two side outside moulder with a deep drop bed. The serial number indicates that this machine was made at the Rowley and Hermance Plant. It’s a little machine that did all the sash and door sticking in its former plant. I use it for small stuff but mostly use the No 3 1/2 for sash and door parts.

Pictured here is the top head with a two wing sticker head. It is set up for 1 3/4″ ovolo sticking. Could be called a cap head. This head uses spikes. It is an interesting system but I prefer the square heads.

This is another kind of two wing sticker head. Some call matcher heads because they are common on old matchers. Also seen as a “mortise” head. No cap. The spikes are pinched in from the sides. I know little about these except that the knives must be of the correct thickness for the slot and that the edges must be true. This one is set up for 1 1/8″ ovolo cabinet doors.

I have used these in a pinch and they have worked well but I am not comfortable with them.

This is the same machine with a square head on it. Set up for screen mould. Feed rolls and spring holds clearly visible. The chip breaker/hood is hinged up and out of the way. The vertical rod lifts and lowers the bed. This model has no bed lock. Always come up to dimension. Must remove a 16th inch of material to clean up from the imprint of the feed rolls in softwoods.

Later models use adjustable hold down pressure shoes with wood guides.

As with all sash stickers, it is important to use heads with the correct cutting circle. The feed works are designed to work material in that location. If you use small heads, the feed works will rise too high and bind before the cut is reached. Too large, the cut will happen before the rolls contact or bear enough to advance the work. I have seen guys use larger rolls, but this increases the feed rate, lowering quality, and crowds the chip hood. Knowing where the happy cutting circle is on these old stickers is the key to smooth running.

The bed is centered on the threaded rod between the chamfered ways on which the bed raises and lowers. The No 1 is rather low to the floor. Men were shorter in the 1880s which is when I suspect this design was first produced. So I elevated it some. The spring post lock handles are forged. I have the chipbreaker weight off for this panel mold run.

This is the tailshaft. Everything is powered from here. From left to right: side head, top head, two speed feedworks, to borer and slotter intermediate shaft at rear of machine, tight pulley, loose pulley on the floor behind, and v-belt sheave for motor drive. A five horse drives this machine fine. It’s turning at around 850 rpm.

Several things here. The lever has a wood friction bearing to keep light tension on the feed belt. It is disengaged here. Some where I believe I have another pulley for the base of the drive for a speed change. This adds a range in addition to the step pulleys from the tailshaft to the feed intermediate shaft at the frame base. I also change speeds by changing the upper pulley.

The two feed roll drives run off the same wide gear. The larger gears pivot and there is lead in these shafts, so there is a lot of room in the gear faces. On the left you see the weighted bar, forged, and small yoke that pressures the feedrolls. The feed shafts run in open notched in the frame. This is what I call an open yielding feed works. This is the early way of driving feed, allowing for stock variation, cutting circle variance (discouraged), and drive lead. The lead forces the stock towards the fence or machine frame so that it will not wander around under the knives.

Most sash stickers will have some means of slotting and boring stiles. the slot allows the sash to clear the jamb pulley flanges and sash cord or chain and the drill bores the hole for securing the knot in the sash cord. These are drilled at an angle so that they pull inward towards the glass rather than, well, falling out and binding the sash. A foot pedal lifts the boring arbor. Stops limit the length of the slot and in this case lifts the part to lessen the depth of the slot at the knot bore.

Here is the tooling under the slot and bore table shown above. The collar is a shaper collar but with square slots. I do not run these. And don’t recommend that anyone else do so.

This is the intermediate shaft at the rear of the machine that drives the drill and the slotter. It is driven from the tailshaft by the pulley beside the tight (drive) pulley shown above. As you can see, not used.

This is the side head spindle. Not tooled here. The bearings on this are a R and H patent I believe. Copied by others. Fay and Egan for sure. The caps are two part and in a quadrant. Easy to take up wear in the bearing.

The case on the left contains gears that can be coupled or not depending if you want to tilt the spindle or move it as tilted laterally. R and H uses this concept on the other stickers I have and the New Column molder. Hermance uses it on the 50 and 60 molders many, many years later.

Here is a nice easy set up. That grind lends itself to a full pattern grind. Bolts, knives, and head need to be closely inspected each time they are set up. I use these heads and show them here for historical interest. But I do not recommend them.

This shows several things. The cutting circle/feed roll/chipbreaker relation ship is real important. If the cutting circle is increased, the rolls will not bear. A larger set will, but they will also speed the feed. It is desirable to have the rolls bear square to the surface of the stock. If angled, the indent from the serrations deepens and will require a deeper cut to clean up. If the cutting circle is too small, the knife bolt nuts will mar the work. This machine likes a 3″ head. This head has been balanced as seen in the drilled corners. Good heads have non planar faces. This keeps the knife tight at the  cutter head lips. Carbon steel knives have hardened cutting edges but are tempered below the heel to have increased toughness required to be bolted to the non planar surfaces.

Here’s the little devil at work. Making a nice job of it. Panel mould.

And here’s the versatile little devil making sash stiles. It’s the Little Sticker That Can.

And here’s the Little Sticker That Can resting after making a few bottom rails. For these longer parts with bar mortises, I turn the second spring around and ride it in the rabbet to keep from damaging or getting hung up in the mortises.


I decided to belt up the plow and bore attachment.



The belt on the left comes from the tailshaft.



It is hard to see but there is a two step depth to the slot. Deeper to clear the pulley in the pulley stile, shallow to provide clearance to the cord (or chain).


One Response to “AMERICAN No. 1 SASH STICKER”

  1. Martin Dever Says:

    Thanks for the demo! I aspire to own a sticking machine some day.

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